Fly into Vágar from Copenhagen or Reykjavík. Rent a car on arrival — the tunnels make the whole archipelago drivable, and the roundabout under the ocean between Streymoy and Eysturoy is, improbably, lit like an art installation. Expect to be rained on every day and to not care after the first.
The hike to Kallur
The Kallur Lighthouse hike on Kalsoy is a 90-minute walk up a grassy ridge to a lighthouse on the edge of a thousand-foot cliff. It is the photograph you have seen of the Faroes — the one with the white tower and the impossible drop — and it is even better in person, because the weather does things to the light that cameras can only hint at.
Stay at Gásadalur
Gásadalur is a village of eleven inhabitants on the far side of a mountain, connected to the rest of the world only by a tunnel dug in 2004. Before that, the village was reached on foot over a pass. Stay one night in the guesthouse there and you will understand something about the Faroese relationship with isolation that no museum can convey.
Eat at KOKS (or don't)
KOKS, the Faroe Islands' two-Michelin-star restaurant, relocated to a temporary outpost in Greenland in 2022 but has since returned. If you can get in, go. If you can't, Ræst, its more casual sibling, serves fermented lamb and skerpikjøt in Tórshavn and is the better introduction to Faroese cuisine for first-timers anyway.
